Processing And Wearing Properties Of Cashmere Fabrics

1 Introduction

The value of cashmere is rare, but what is more important is the performance of cashmere.

The cross sections of wool and cashmere fibers are round.

Generally, the diameter of wool fiber is 18.1 to 67 m m, and the diameter of cashmere fiber is 14.5 m to 16.5 m. It can be seen that cashmere fiber is thinner than wool fiber, and the finer fiber is, the more homogeneous the whole fiber is, the softer the gloss. So the quality of cashmere fiber product is better than that of ordinary wool. Cashmere fabric is lighter than wool fabric made of cashmere and wool fabric of the same density.

The crimp of wool fiber is strong and weak, and cashmere is a strong curl, so cashmere fabric feels good and elasticity is better than ordinary wool.

To sum up, cashmere has the fine properties of light weight, fine slip and warmth retention.

2 wearing properties of cashmere fabrics

2.1 softness

Cashmere fabrics are soft, soft, light, slippery, waxy, warm and cool.

During the processing, cashmere fabric has a special finish of finishing, with a thin velvet on the surface, soft, delicate, smooth and plump with the hands.

In addition, if cashmere fabric is directly dressed with human skin, it will not only have no itching sensation, but will be very comfortable.

Two point two

Cashmere itself is a thick and thick villi growing in goat's hair roots in cold winter to resist cold.

The longer the weather is, the more fine the velvet is, the longer the fiber grows.

So cashmere fabric processed with cashmere fiber has good thermal insulation property.

2.3 strong hygroscopicity.

The moisture absorption ability of cashmere is the strongest in all fibers, and the moisture regain is about 17%.

When cashmere fabric is dressed, it can automatically absorb moisture when the external climate is changeable. It has good sweating effect and can adjust the temperature suitable for skin physiology quickly and automatically.

3 processing of cashmere fabrics

2.1 cashmere spinning

Before, the cashmere products on the market were basically woolen products.

In recent years, due to the demand of the market, cashmere products are developing in a high and light direction.

Based on this trend, the cashmere spinning process is also developing towards the spinning of high count yarn.

Therefore, not only advanced woollen equipment and improved woolen spinning technology have been paid attention to, but also the development of worsted and semi worsted products is attracting more and more attention.

2.1.1 Woolen System

Woolen spinning is the most widely used method of cashmere spinning. Its technological process is: wool dyeing, wool, carding, spinning, yarn blending, twisting and winding.

The spinning fineness is usually less than 31.25 tex * 2 using a woolen spinning system.

In order to adapt to the new trend, some factories have carried out the research on the spinning of cashmere yarn, such as 27.8 tex * 2, in some factories.

To obtain higher count yarn, it can be improved from raw material selection, dyeing, wool, carding and spindle.

For example, the method of premixed, wool and oil and wool two times and the number of times of hair are reduced, which is beneficial to the decrease of grain size. With the increase of spinning number, properly reducing the spacing between carding parts, especially the ends of the carding machine, can better control the pfer process of fiber and improve the quality of wool net.

2.1.2 worsted system

The fineness of cashmere fiber is between 14 m and 16 m.

If the woollen wool spinning system is used for processing, the yarn can be spun for more than 31.25 tex under normal conditions. If the yarn is processed by the worsted system, the yarn of 12.5 tex can be spun according to the number of yarn sections, which can not only give full play to the advantages of the cashmere fineness, but also greatly increase the added value of cashmere products, thus creating good economic benefits for the enterprise.

Cashmere spinning process is similar to wool worsted, and there are strip making process and spinning process.

There are three ways to make pure cashmere sliver.

(1) the wool spinning process is mainly composed of no plush and hair filling, carding machine combing, head stitches, two needles, three stitches, combing, needles, end combing, goosefoot strips.

(2) cotton spinning process route is mainly: No Plush and hair filling, carding machine combing, drawing, drawing, drawing, winding, cotton combing, drawing, and goosefoot sliver.

(3) wool / cotton mixed process route: No Plush and hair oil, then carding machine, GN5 comber, PB2 comber, GN5 carding machine and goosefoot strip.

Because cashmere fiber is relatively short and close to long staple cotton, cotton spinning combing process is generally selected.

The spinning process is as follows: Cashmere strip, mixing bar, scalp needle, two needles, three needles, four needles, roving, spinning, doubling, twisting, winding.

{page_break}

2.1.3 semi worsted system

Semi worsted system is a spinning method between worsted and woolen yarn. The yarn produced is more fluffy and softer than combed yarn, even more smooth than carded yarn.

Semi worsted spinning without combing and removing short fibers can spin yarns with fineness of less than 16.67 tex, which can meet the needs of ordinary lightweight fabrics, and the yarn forming rate is high and the cost is relatively low.

The specific technological process is woollen and woolen machine, wool spinning machine (bar cylinder), cotton spinning frame (3~6 way), cotton spinning frame, cotton spinning frame, winding machine, yarn cleaning machine, twister, and doubling machine.

In view of this process, optimum technological parameters can be selected according to raw material and yarn support in production practice.

2.2 dyeing and finishing of cashmere fabrics

Pretreatment process of 2.2.1 dyeing

Usually no pretreatment is necessary before cashmere fiber dyeing.

In the acquisition of cashmere, the cashmere merchants have been washed, and the manufacturers have chosen the color matching according to their color requirements, and then directly dyed. The color is slightly deviant and can be dyed through colored velvet.

However, due to the consideration of the cost of raw materials and the quality of raw materials, cashmere products are groping for pretreatment of some cashmere raw materials.

The process of decoloring purple cashmere: cashmere raw materials can be divided into white, green, purple or brown according to their natural colors.

White cashmere yield is less and purple is more.

In order to reduce costs and improve the practical value of colored cashmere, many manufacturers decolorization of purple cashmere, so that they can reach the color level of white cashmere, and then dye them.

According to the relevant information, the oxidation reduction and decolorization process using metal salt as the media agent is the most convenient and effective, and the effect of copper salt in the metal salt is the best.

The process of cashmere skin elimination: the skin of cashmere fiber is hard to be completely removed. During the dyeing process, different color spots will appear in the dyeing process. These spots will seriously affect the quality and value of cashmere products.

At present, a special preparation of cashmere skin, which is developed by modern bioengineering technology, is called "velvet". It can solve this problem thoroughly, and the bioactive substances in this product are non-toxic, harmless and non residue. It is a green and environment-friendly product.

Its composition has not been reported in detail, but judging from its characteristics, it may be a kind of auxiliaries similar to enzyme, which can selectively decompose some proteins in goat skin and selectively remove skin.

2.2.2 dyeing process

The dyeing process of cashmere is basically the same as that of wool.

Because the quality of cashmere products lies in the fullness and softness of their handle, any negligence in the process will result in fiber damage, which will affect the quality of the spinning and affect the feel of the finished products.

Dyeing process is the most likely cause of fiber damage. Therefore, it is generally recommended to choose a mild dyeing process to avoid rough hands due to excessive dyeing.

The main research on dyeing is mainly focused on cashmere dyeing at low temperature and environmental protection.

2.2.3 finishing process

After finishing, cashmere fabrics are mainly anti pilling finishing.

There are 4 main reasons for Pilling of cashmere sweaters: fineness and length of cashmere fiber, spinning twist, weaving density and post processing of garment.

Application of suitable finishing agent in finishing process can improve fuzzing and pilling performance.

The finishing process is divided into 3 steps, as follows:

First, the semi finished cashmere sweater is soaked in 20 min ~ 30 C warm water with a clean lotion (usually 4 to 10 min), then it can be rolled in an automatic washer. The time is 1 min to 2 min, and then rinse off with water.

(2) soft, add 5% to 7% finishing agent in 30~40 temperature water, 3% to 5% silicone softener SWE, 5.5% to 7% smoothing agent, pH control at 5~6, then cashmere cashmere fabric soaked in the above mixture solution 20 ~ 30min, then dehydration.

3. Drying and drying at 80~110 C temperature range.

3 conclusion

Cashmere products, as high-grade textiles, have great potential for development.

Cashmere blending, anti pilling, functional cashmere, cashmere substitute, cashmere new fabric and other five aspects as the main direction of cashmere processing research, as long as we constantly improve product quality, and constantly develop new products, cashmere enterprises will certainly gain high returns.