It Is Not Easy For A Designer To Start A Business, But There Are Hopes For These Six Points.

As early as Rachel Comey founded its brand name clothing brand in 2001, fashion design is not a popular career path. The New York designer recalled: "the fashion world was like a small circle. Fashion week's fashion show and brand are fewer than now. There was no direct marketing mode for consumers, and no social media. "

Nineteen years later, the creation and operation of brands is now another scene. Thanks to the emergence of digital platforms, industry awards, corporate training programs and support from large retailers, young creative people including Craig Green and Jonathan Anderson have gained space to expand their business worldwide. However, as the newly arrived brand has been able to enter the market smoothly, it is becoming more difficult for the brand to stand out. Even the most talented designers can not guarantee success. In this environment of constant desire for the next big hit, the pressure faced by new entrepreneurs can be both inspiring and threatening.

Comey added: "now there are many opportunities for brands to start. People yearn for freshness, but people's memory is very short. "

　　 Attach importance to the formulation of business plans

"Among the designers I met, 90% of the designers did not have any business strategy at all," said Olya Kuryshchuk, founder and editor of the 1 Granary, a fashion oriented graduate's platform and community. "The way they work is very artistic, and they hope that things can be solved in a certain way."

Although there is no such thing as "universally acceptable", early knowledge of cash flow, legal basis, value-added tax, shipping rules and invoicing is beneficial.

Creative director Peter Do had no commercial experience until he launched his own brand in 2018. He develops his business sense by asking friends for advice, listening to podcasts and Google searches. "You spend much more time in managing than cutting and designing," he said. Peter Do sales director Vincent Ho also added: "fashion is a business, you must be strict management."

It is very important for aspiring brand owners to take a step back. Is it a good way to enter big brand learning? Do you want to do two jobs instead of quitting your daily work? Brigitte Chartrand, senior director of purchasing Ssense, a luxury shopping website, recommends courses in business administration and human resource management. These courses can help designers lead teams, negotiate with suppliers and customers.

Kuryshchuk recommends cooperation with partners who are also committed to the development of the company. Michelle Duncan, the founder of the clothing brand Duncan, founded a year ago, advises designers to seek help from industry mentors.

But the comforting fact is that a certain degree of innocence is also beneficial to young designers. "If you know too much, you may be more afraid of failure," Do said. If you don't know much, you may be more willing to give it a try. "

　　 Spend money on the blade

For a brand, it is common to lose several years before losing profits. As more and more investors turn their attention from independent brands to direct consumer oriented start-ups, designers with insufficient funds may find it hard to start businesses and maintain their operations.

For the lucky few, many retailers, incubators, and the famous awards from Ssense to the Labelhood Fashion Festival in Shanghai, and then to the LVMH Prize awards, there is no shortage of new designers who can provide the resources needed for their platforms, funds and recognition. But Kuryshchuk said that large cash injections at the beginning of the venture often did not benefit the brand. She said: "to learn to save money, we must be able to motivate and attract people around us to help you and work with you, so that they can do so out of your true trust, not just because your work is not afraid of no one's paying."

Labelhood, 8on8's press conference photo source: the other side offers

Whether it is self financing or investor sponsorship, the key is to maximize the use of funds. For Do, which originally started to raise money for family and friends, it means that no fashion show will be held for 75 thousand dollars or public relations agency will be hired.

He said in an interview with BoF: "before spending a lot of money on things that you may not need, try to do everything yourself. Before making budgets or business plans and allocating funds, make sure that your money is spent on the knife edge. " Do invested in the construction of his 12 full-time staff team (it is worth noting that the company has no pay interns), Ho said, this approach allows the brand to focus on making speech and focusing on long-term development.

Each brand has different budgets, and new brand owners should find a suitable plan for them. For example, Duncan found that it is more efficient to work with four or five partners, and she can consult partners about public relations and production matters. She plans to introduce these partners into the company as the brand continues to develop. "Building a large team immediately is not the most effective way to make use of capital."

　　 Put production in the first place

Improving brand sales and production operations is also crucial. "Failure in this area may cause your company to last for a year," Kuryshchuk said. Think of it as a muscle first and then on the stage.

In the field of making clothes, it is often helpful to start from a small scale and localize. Designer Rachel Comey chose to cut tailoring business in Manhattan, which allowed her to achieve small batch production and operate customized business: after displaying each series, the brand will be on sale and counted for each item, and the production will be carried out according to these orders.

"It is a great experience to talk to the plate makers and sewing workers and discuss every sewing thread and every garment," she said. If it is too far away, it is more difficult to do so. "

Before receiving the actual order, the designer needs to consider the production process in advance. This is not only to catch up with the construction period, but also because the buyer will want to know the production process of the displayed clothing. Do worked for Phoebe Philo's Celine and Derek Lam for a while, then decided to launch her own brand, and tested the factory one year before that and communicated with the fabric factory. "We only focus on the clothing itself and its production grounds. Before that, we must first build a system. "

　　 Think of retail as a learning experience.

In the face of online, offline, direct consumer marketing, wholesale and other dazzling choices, the current retail environment may make entrepreneurs lose their way.

Duncan and MatchesFashion signed an agreement for the two quarter (up to 2020 spring summer series). For a designer like her, signing exclusive partnership with well-known retailers can protect brand assets and at the same time strive for time to plan the next move. Kuryshchuk said: "you can test your production through such an opportunity, ensure that you deliver on time, and do not need to deal with a number of stores, currency, shipping rules and other issues." In order to avoid relying on a single partner, he suggested that the signing time should not exceed two seasons.

There is always room for bargaining. Do and Net-a-Porter have launched a two quarter digital partnership that allows him to sell through his own e-commerce websites and physical stores. Not only that, he also had access to important brand feedback and resources (creating a "freight and logistics training camp") and gained the autonomy of ordering many retailers including Nordstrom and Bergdorf Goodman.

Rachel Comey products / photo sources in Losangeles store: the other side offers

No matter which channel to choose, the key lies in parallel online and offline. With the development of brand, this practice can lay the foundation for brand independence. Five years ago, Comey opened her first store in Crosby Street, New York, which played an extremely important role in understanding the life and needs of shoppers, and continued to provide information for product development. Crosby "Every day I understand the way of life of a client: her identity, her destination, her work, and the way she chooses to travel," she said. I have established a deeper relationship with our customers, which is really important. "

　　 Protect your brand

Although not all designers have the gift of marketing, clear brand information is crucial to the rapid development of enterprises. Chartrand says this is just as important as the product you make, and "must be clear from the beginning."

The first is to protect the brand. Carl Steele, partner and trademark director of Ashfords LLP, said that the registration of intellectual property rights needs to be completed as soon as possible, because this may be a major factor in the success or failure of potential investors. Once disputes arise, the cost will be very high. He recommends that infringement searches be carried out globally before registering trademarks and record the entire design process.

Brand should remember to choose the right battleground. "No matter how successful you are, there will always be someone who plagiarize your achievements," Steele said. But did they hurt you in real terms? " Designers may have to pay thousands of dollars in ATTORNEYS' fees, which can be used to recruit new employees. "Usually, the more valuable way is to invest money in other areas, and then move on."

While developing brand image, we should recognize the personal characteristics and existing value of designers, and maintain their consistency. Chartrand lists Simon Porte Jacquemus as the gold standard (the Instagram content of the designer's personal character or aesthetics is highly consistent with its brand name).

Many emerging brands have launched high priced products aimed at young consumers. Raven is a public relations agency in London, representing young fashion brands including Richard Malone. Sophie Jewes, the company's founder and brand director, said that the core of brand promotion lies in the question: "how do you plan to attract people who buy products at this price?"

Only after building a strong foundation for production and sales, should we consider the factors such as media, press releases and celebrity styling, and we need to make a careful selection of these practices. Kuryshchuk said: "some brands have built a huge fan base, gained a lot of media coverage, and relied on brand cooperation to survive, but they hardly had their own sales. This is by no means a permanent solution. "

Develop with water and flow

There is no hard and fast rule to expand the scale of business, but if there is doubt, we must take it slow. Before creating a visual image, first invest time and money in business, production and sales to build a strong foundation, then consider enhancing media coverage.

This can be summed up as a conservative response to the Current hype media environment, and it is customary to say "no". Kuryshchuk said, "LVMH Prize is available every year. A good exhibition hall would like to sign a contract with you this season. They will also want you to show it next season. If a stylist wants to shoot with your work, he will come again. "

Designers' partners and how to maintain these partnerships are equally important for responsible growth. Chartrand said that "brand" is very important to build a close relationship with people who feel authentic and trustworthy. These relationships are very individualized. In the early stage, there is a need for smooth communication between the two, which will also help the long-term cooperation between the two sides achieve success. "

Designers should curb their desire to compare their brands with the fashionable "watch" brand, otherwise their products will fall off in the first few seasons. Focusing on what they can control, such as paying close attention to cash flow, undertaking only feasible orders, producing high quality products on time, and coordinating marketing measures to attract fans, these measures are more likely to attract loyal customers and get insights from the industry.

Duncan has extensive experience in consulting, cosmetic and talent management. She said: "creating a brand, especially in the fashion industry with high ups and downs, your mood will fluctuate. You must learn how to manage your time very quickly, so that you will not overexert yourself and go mad. "

Focusing on personal time, that is, reducing the time spent on social media and maintaining interpersonal relationships outside work, is a time-consuming but effective strategy. This practice not only provides space for designers to think creatively, but also fostered trust and communication between colleagues in the studio.