In The Fashion Week Of Shanghai, There Is A City That They Once Lived In.

The clothes they designed have a city that once lived.

Everyone can read his own city from it.

2018 the autumn and winter fashion week in Shanghai has ended, and the Labelhood venue, which combines vanguard designers, officially ended in April 1st.

In this season, Labelhood has 20 fashion brands.

And nearly half of them were fresh faces.

These new designers are brave in personality, relaxed and confident, though they are very young, but they are very experienced.

From Taiwan, Hongkong, Beijing to London, New York and Antwerp, they have traveled all over the world to study, live and struggle, thus absorbing energy from diverse cultural backgrounds and pforming them into fashion inspiration.

We believe that a city is not just a collection of buildings. The scenery, friends, lovers and even a road sign in the city will shape a person's story.

The city is like a labyrinth. It is also a game. You can walk around in it. Sometimes you feel happy, sometimes you feel lost.

And every gain and loss is a simulation of the journey of life.

As the writer Calvino said, almost everywhere, there are concluding remarks. They are written along all the edges.

Perhaps for designers, the conclusion of them and a city is hidden in countless sleepless days, drawings and clothing lines, forming the expression of a person and a city, and will eventually show the emotional stitches to its audience and lovers.

The following are the city stories of these designers.

Everyone can read the city that belongs to him only.

Hongkong photo source: sneaker Street HK

Chen Jingxi and Yin Zixin

[The World is Your Oyster]

Designer: Chen Jingxi, Yin Zixin

2018 autumn and winter series: people revisited the Beat Generation in the 50s American literature movement.

The whole show, taking a boy's bedroom as a scene, not only brings a little romance to the boys' daily wear, but also makes the whole space become an old drama with a retro flavor. It conveys the message of "Living in the past; Living in a dream".

As the first brand to appear in THE WORLD IS YOUR OYSTER in LABELHOOD, designers used a large number of stitching grid, cloth and printing elements, and the overall color was dark.

With the questioning of materialism, the brand shows people's dissatisfaction with social phenomena through different cultural directions such as literature.

City: Hongkong

THE WORLD IS YOUR OYSTER

THE WORLD IS YOUR OYSTER

THE WORLD IS YOUR OYSTER

Chen Jingxi and Yinzi Xin: he had lived in London for more than half a year and had the deepest feelings for Hongkong, because he was a native of Hongkong.

So when we design, we will feel that we will be more familiar with things in Hongkong, and we can make design more freely.

Because there are familiar things around us.

Now the studio is Base in Hongkong and factories in the mainland.

Starting from this season, we want to see the market reaction in the mainland, so cutting through Labelhood is a good opportunity.

We did not deliberately put the elements of Hongkong in, but we saw that some people and things around us would be inspired, and everything we saw would affect the way of thinking and design.

For example, the price of property in Hongkong is very high, and young people are suffering from this problem.

When they think about these things, they will be too busy to forget their original dreams.

So before we made a T-shirt, it says that we need to spend a lot of money to buy a small house and use 176 working hours to exchange for a square meter.

It is not that housing prices are not high, but that people are thinking about whether they should pursue what they want, not that the society must buy a house or something.

Our friends will encounter this problem, some will feel that "I need a house, so I have to work hard, even if I do not want to do this thing", it becomes a house slave.

Beijing photo source: China discovery

Ying Shen

[UNDERAGE]

Designer: Ying Shen

2018 autumn and winter series: designers say that they want to feel two words - burst, so she set up a show with many mirrored devices. The clothes have super Logo and Slogan, large area bronzing printing, with the black, gold, red and yellow bright colors.

"Riots of our own (rebellion from the heart") is the theme of this season. The inspiration for the design book is inspired by the underground punk movement and the "RIOT GRRRL" subculture from the end of 70s to the end of 90s.

City: Beijing

Ying Shen likes Francisco de P P Jaro works.

(photo source: Flickr)

UNDERAGE

UNDERAGE

UNDERAGE

Ying Shen: I am from Beijing and live in Hutong.

Because I like Vintage very much, so there will be "childhood" in the brand concept.

When I was little, I loved playing with mom and Dad, such as cameras in 60s and 70s, and so on.

And when I was young, I often traveled and followed my parents around, so I was impressed by some cities.

I actually have hoarding habits, and many things include tickets, and souvenirs.

Reflected in the design, is very obsessed with Vintage, especially the retro men's wear, really great.

After moving to London, I live in the eastern district. There are many old shops and lots of graffiti people near my home. I like to buckle up what they have just posted.

There is also a Spanish artist Francisco de P Jaro, who I like very much. He writes everywhere, "Art is Trash (art is garbage)", and I like to explore these things.

So London can give me a lot of inspiration, because it is easy to find some old times there.

Beijing was mainly remembered as a child, because my major in central Saint Martin is the future material, which is the fabric that may be used in the next 30 to 50 years, so the style now is "Mix Pop Culture (mixed modern culture)", which will combine modern things with the nostalgic elements of childhood.

At design time, maybe I would think of grade six in primary school, thinking about a certain color on the street, what the cartoon is and what it tastes like.

These retrievable fragments of memory can give me inspiration.

My feeling now is that if you don't hate the city you live in, it means that you like it, it will get into your life, and feel like Love & Hate, but you need enough time to dig that place to appreciate its loveliness.

London photo source: espanarusa

Susan Fang

[Susan Fang]

Designer: Susan Fang

2018 autumn and winter series: choose a more hidden and basic rhythm, try to use woven ribbons to create "living fabric".

The fabric that is not wrinkled in the suitcase will change according to the body curve, and use color to enhance the dynamic and contrast, and highlight the visual effect.

Only one shoe is the most common cold hauling, but Susan says the main thing to highlight is socks.

The accessories are mainly highlighted by head ornaments, and pparent beads are woven together, like a hat, moving in the lamplight.

The music of the show is very interesting. It was from the fruit factory that some workers were found, and the voice of chewing fruit was recorded. Finally, it was made by Japanese mixer artists.

City: London

Susan Fang

Susan Fang

Susan Fang

Susan Fang: my hometown in Ningbo, Zhejiang, when I was young, I went to the United States and Canada to study. After graduating from central London Saint Martin college in 2015, I was in London.

Probably every three years, I will change a city to live and study, so I will have different countries' impressions, which will enlighten me.

I think if the city will naturally give you some information to be accepted, then you will have the temperament of the city in your style.

As for getting inspiration from the city, I remember walking on a hike for a week. When I came back to the city, I found the city very strange. It seemed that there were many different geometries, and then I wanted to use it in the design.

Now for me, China is a special place, though it is not very well understood, but it is very attractive.

Because Chinese people are very receptive to new things and have their own way of understanding.

Londoners may appreciate one thing, but it is not so easy for the Chinese to accept some experimental things.

For me, because I didn't stay in a place for a long time after growing up, I would not be fixed in the same concept and culture, nor would I be too obstinate in one thing. Then it would be easier to think and accept things widely. This mode of thinking would also be reflected in my future design.

Photo source: Jiang Yi Shun

Jiang Yi Shun

[Angus Chiang]

2018 autumn and winter series: the theme of Angus Chiang this season is "dreamers". As a representative of Taiwan's pportation, the locomotive became his inspiration Mousika.

And the image of the dreamer he wants to shape is the "young drivers" who are wearing bright colors and temperament.

In the memory of the designer, Taiwan is noisy. In order to reflect in the design, he used PVC and reflective fabrics, such as metal parts of locomotive parts.

Color is also common in locomotives: red, yellow, purple and black.

Accessories are like gadgets related to locomotives. Metal safety helmets and earrings are like small car reflectors.

For shoes, he is a symbol of big head shoes, rubber bottoming with thick needle stockings.

Designer: Jiang Yi Shun

City: Taipei

Angus Chiang

Angus Chiang

Angus Chiang

Jiang Yi: I have lived in many cities, such as New York, London, Paris, Shanghai and so on. But the most emotional feeling is Taipei, which is my most accustomed and comfortable place.

Taipei has so many memorable stories that I usually put it in the design, especially for those who helped me, and when my abilities were not able to repay them in real terms, the clothes I designed could remind me all the time that everything was not easy.

Although Taipei is a chaotic city, it also means that it will have many surprises.

So the inspiration that life gives me sometimes is something very small. Maybe a picture that passes by on the road can give me inspiration.

For example, seeing some conflicts in the streets will stimulate my thinking and continue to issue some topics, which will become the source of inspiration.

I hope to convey a humorous perspective from the brand. This world is very stressful. No matter what others give or what you give to yourself, it is a process that we must pass. The humorous perspective I want to say is a positive but not too ideal attitude, and it is very easy to face every day.

For me, the city and fashion design must have something to do with it.

I just want to take the cities that I have lived far away and spread good things out.

With the combination of the two, I often follow the theme to follow the clothing history or evolution.

London office workers.

(photo source: shutterstock)

Huang Wei

[Jamie Wei Huang]

2018 autumn and winter series: designers who majored in oil painting and sculpture later entered the field of fashion design, bringing the three-dimensional feeling and craft into the design.

2018 the design of autumn and winter is also as bright as oil painting.

This is the first time that the brand has released fashion in Labelhood.

The theme is "to pay tribute to the firm and firm heart of this world" and salute the entertainment industry in Hongkong in 90s.

Because in those days, Hongkong, which integrated Chinese and Western cultures, nurtured countless young dreams.

She hopes to express her dream by design.

White, blue and other pure colored sweaters were sprinkled with colored brushwork, such as painting on clothes.

There are more details in the details of clothes, for example, the sleeves are decorated with different materials, hollow links, buttons, lace and so on.

Many of the grid and fur elements are also used in the coat. The wide belt and the huge geometric earrings are the key accessories.

Designer: Huang Wei

Main cities: Taipei, London

Jamie WEI HUANG

Jamie WEI HUANG

Jamie WEI HUANG

Huang Wei: I was born in mainland China. I grew up in Taiwan and worked in London after school.

Taipei is a place for self recognition, while London is where I am.

I have studied painting, sculpture and clothing. No matter which field, I have to experience and think, and then present it in different forms.

So people, things and places that are experienced are very important sources of creation, and the process of creating and making clothes is a reflection of one's self cognition.

I feel lucky that as a designer, I can not only know myself more deeply, but also express my thoughts about the world.

This is also why the living environment is also important, after all, life experience and experience will affect designers in tangible or intangible ways.

For example, in the spring and summer series of 2015, I was inspired by the workers who were observed in London. They would roll up a trouser tube on their sides or hang their bicycle cap on their waist.

I think fashion is the look of culture, and the so-called fashion culture is the people who want to return to the city.

Chengdu photo source: telegraph

Yin Jing Wei

[OUDE WAAG]

2018 autumn and winter series: OUDE WAAG brought his first series of designs in Labelhood - dawn.

What made this designer most known before was the "contradiction" of his graduation work.

A strong sense of conflict, a strong color of "contradiction" and "dawn" visual difference is very large, it makes it difficult to recognize the same designer's work.

The OUDE WAAG show originated from the imagination of the future organic primitive world, and the models with strong colors but heavy colors were shuttled between three stone heaps on the spot.

This is inspired by the designer Yin Jingwei from the sculptural PLATE 38 of Franz West sculpture, depicting a magnificent aesthetic scene with a sense of future and original feeling.

The tailoring is very suitable for the female figure, but the lines are not soft. The broad leg trousers, the skirt like the cloak and the grid skirt reveal the fierce temperament of the female.

The left and right sides of the shoes are decorated with flame and wings, symbolizing the rebirth of the bath.

Designer: Yin Jingwei

Main cities: Chengdu, Antwerp

OUDE WAAG

OUDE WAAG

OUDE WAAG

Yin Jingwei: I am from Chengdu. I stayed in London. Now I move to Shanghai for about half a year.

The origin of the brand name of "OUDE WAAG" is actually very clever, because the experience of internship in HAIDER ACKERMANN and the influence of the designers of 90s Antwerp are more profound. After graduation, I went to Antwerp with my friend to visit the city which is very meaningful to me. An unexpected experience made us discover the street sign of OUDE WAAG. At that time, I thought the pronunciation and shape of this completely unknown word was the brand I wanted, so I chose it as the brand name.

The series of "contradictory Chronicles" of my graduation work, I thought at that time, was a mixture of Chinese and Western cultures. It did not mean that certain elements must be put together, but the two cultural backgrounds I was in, as well as a reflection of a Chinese student who accepted Western fashion education.

If my character has any connection with Chengdu, it may be a more indifferent attitude.

Shanghai

Now, their new story begins in Shanghai.

Today, these designers are gathered in Shanghai, they will also encounter new cities into the creation.

For example, the theme of Yin Jingwei's season is "Breaking Dawn", because the process of creation is exactly the process of team's hard progress. He said, "on the one hand, it wants to embody the relationship between human and nature in brand aesthetics, and on the other hand, it shows the difficult process in Shanghai's new environment and new team to nurture this new brand, and indicates a new beginning.

Because the city of Shanghai is always moving and exciting, which is similar to London. "

Ying Shen also saw the bustle of Shanghai because of its affinity with Labelhood, and felt that there would be many opportunities in the future.

Over the past two years, Shanghai has gradually become a gathering point of designers from all over the world.

Their memories, stories and imprints related to other cities were finally spread through the clothes of a fashion week in Shanghai.

Those stories about cities are becoming more and more diverse, because the areas covered by the vast world are becoming more extensive.

Besides Hongkong, Macao, Taiwan, neighboring Japan, South Korea, France, Paris, Italy Milan, London, New York, and even Belgium, the names of these fashion capital also come from more and more Chinese creative talents to learn and live far away, and absorb nutrients and inspiration, which are related to Shanghai.

There are many reasons for these associations.

On the one hand, the time spent, energy and money spent on the four major fashion week overseas are compared with those of Shanghai.

It is easy to see that the brand that comes to Shanghai, without exception, regards China as its important market, or even the most important one.

Moreover, at least until now, the audience of Chinese show audience has been very tolerant of fashion show.

From this point of view, the effect of brand promotion directly in the vicinity of the target consumer is not necessarily worse than going overseas, and then returning home.

Shanghai fashion week's increasing Showroom (sample room) and trade show also made Shanghai

The boundary brushes the sense of existence.

The Shanghai Fashion Week Organizing Committee even produced the "Asian largest order season" sign, hoping to strengthen the importance of business to Shanghai fashion week.

In addition, Chinese brands frequently invest in overseas fashion brands and make Shanghai more attractive than those in the Chinese market. Besides selling, fashion week has become a platform for designers and brands to exchange opportunities with investors and organizations.

With the opportunity of fashion week, the fate of Shanghai and many designers from all over the world will follow.

Designers such as Chen Anqi and Chen Peng put their own design studio in Shanghai in China.

Apart from the market,

And the surrounding area is also a gathering place for processing plants and accessories suppliers.

Some designers are often able to establish deep cooperation with these factories and suppliers, or even set up offices in their factories.

Today, Shanghai has been in its sixteenth year.

Weeks have gradually stabilized.

But when new exploding points are scarce, reputation becomes the key to Shanghai's continued status in the designer's mind, and how to write the story's follow-up, ending with joy or worry, and it takes time to give an answer.