Men'S Clothing Brand Thom Browne Gradually Speeds Up Its Pace In China.

According to the world clothing shoes and hats net,

Perhaps most people can't give them an accurate adjective -- especially in China.

The low exposure to the public gives consumers a sense of distance, or because of some stars, some people regard it as a tide card.

But at the moment, the pace of Thom Browne in China is accelerating.

If you have been to Rui Europe department store recently, you may find the new Thom Browne independent store -- this is China's first flagship store in Thom Browne, which is located in a shop near the gate. The decoration style is just like the store opened in Milan and London, which is full of hard metal decoration and single black and white tones. It has continued its cooperation with ASA Studioalbanese architect Flavio Albanese in design, and the most recognizable one is still a desk placed directly on the gate. Don't think it's just a trick of display, and the store manager here will really work here. "Browne"

The rigorous and cold "office" is not only the decoration style of the store, but also the insistence of Thom Browne on brand style.

Unlike other brands, Thom Browne opened a new store in a very low-key way: no business activities, no ribbon cutting, no media...

Following the launch of the first flash store in Beijing last year, the store opened the real expansion of Thom Browne in China, and there will be 5 independent stores opening in the future.

This style of action is indeed Thom Browne.

The so-called brand style is an enlargement of Thom Browne's own style.

In the midtown Office of Manhattan, the 52 year old actor's uniform is always in the form of a suit jacket shorter than the usual size, a shirt that has not been ironed, a gray tie in Oxford, and a thin knitted cardigan.

And a tight waist cut shorts.

"It's amazing, it's been 15 years, but I still think this match is very fresh."

Thom Browne once said in an interview with reporters.

Maybe it comes from different angles. There are various interpretations of the brand image of Thom Browne. Some people think it is the same contemporary designer brand as Dries Van Noten, and some people think it is the future Ralph Lauren. But for Asian, especially mainland China consumers, the recognition of this brand comes from the star effect of Korean star power dragon or Wu Yifan.

It is precisely because of this that Thom Browne has been more and more understood by Chinese customers as a tide card: Knitted cardigan, trousers with three bars, and slightly weird accessories are filled with their first impression.

However, in the US and European markets, consumers are following more Thom Browne suit designs, including a number of fashion media including i-D and GQ.

"In the past fifteen years, I have never discovered that anyone except Thom Browne can make such a big change in men's attire."

This is from John Demsey, executive director of Estee Lauder group. He is a big fan of Thom Browne. From the beginning of brand building, he insisted on wearing a custom tailored suit made by Thom Browne.

Thom Browne was founded in 2001, and Browne led the way of brand development as well as my own style, but this does not mean that good design has not been seen by the public.

The brand men's wear line has now entered nearly 250 buyer's boutiques around the world, and the women's wear line launched in 2011 also has nearly 120 retail outlets.

In the industry, relevant people have said: "Thom Browne has the potential to become a fashion brand worth one hundred million dollars."

In September, he was also awarded the artistic fashion award by Couture Council Award in New York in 2017.

As we all know, the Thom Browne show is always grotesque. Neither model modeling nor scene device seems to be an American brand style. It also makes many people mistake him for being the same as John Galliano and Alexander McQueen, but ignores his skills in tailoring the suit.

To try on a Thom Browne suit, maybe most people, especially those who are not so standard, feel that the size fits so well and feels as tall as a corrective garment.

From the end of the last century to the new millennium, men's wardrobes were always filled with different T-shirts and jeans. At this time, the appearance of Thom Browne with strong 1950 and 1960s American styles was refreshing. The loose and heavy suit was reduced to a size, and the full-length suit trousers were pformed to reveal the nine point length of the ankle, the high waist design and the suit with knee breeches. These seemingly small changes were called "twist" by Thom Browne.

"This concept was what Thom told me at the time," Thom Browne CEO Rodrigo Bazan told the interface news. "When I first started working, I was doing a very traditional suit. From the British fabric to the high-end technology, it was the same old thing, but Thom was going to do something different. These details changed to the traditional" twist "and let his design embody its own characteristics in proportion.

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Thom Browne, which is rigorous in aesthetics, is also the same in character, but this makes him seem out of tune in the lively fashion circle.

Compared with the popular designer Alexander Wang and others who are fellow townsman, Thom Browne has no enthusiasm for social networking, nor does he know how to expose herself. Even in his life, he also shows a cold and obsessive personality -- for example, he doesn't like to fold his handkerchief into a triangle in his pocket, because it feels so refined.

However, Thom Browne and the whole team believe that this is the insistence on brand positioning. "Actually, we do not have no social accounts. We opened Instagram accounts six years ago. So far, this is the most important (Social Media) channel. But unlike other designer brands, we will only expose the Thom Browne's brand related design works, but you will never see the contents of the designer's private life."

Rodrigo said.

Designers in fashion circles are keen to show parties, show stars and friends on social networks, and have a tendency to mold themselves into IP, but these will never happen on Thom Browne.

Interestingly, after Rodrigo joined Thom Browne last year, he worked in Alexander Wang.

Although the low-key style has not affected the development of the brand, and at present, the volume of Thom Browne is much larger than that of its the Row, Proenza Schouler and other brands, and even close to Alexander Wang, but a newspaper in New York has published a report entitled "Thom Browne is the most underestimated American designer brand." it is pointed out that although its women's clothing market has performed well in New York, it has never been nominated for any women's clothing award.

For the neglect of the Thom Browne in the American fashion market, Browne herself has been evaded by many questions and showed no concern at all. Rodrigo also said that at the beginning of the brand building, Thom Browne also looked at the world and did not rely on the US: "the US market accounts for only 30% of our company, Europe accounts for 40%, and Asia accounts for 30%, and our trend outside the local market is always faster than that of the US."

Rodrigo says.

But the designer's care does not obscure the reality of the American fashion world, and the European fashion circles pay more attention to the rules of the game. In New York, "wine is not afraid of the alley" seems to be totally unfulfilled. In addition to good works, effective multi-dimensional marketing can make the brand really seen.

After 16 years of development, the Thom Browne has a stronger desire to be seen.

"We really want to create a more special image, maybe you will understand" niche ", but we also hope that our products can reach a wider population.

Rodrigo said, in fact, "minority" is a simple and crude generalization of a number of designer brands that are emerging today. They have their own original style. These styles are actually a kind of market segmentation, which can meet the needs of different styles of consumers.

The emergence of market segmentation is the change brought by Chinese consumers in the wave of consumption upgrading. Although the tactile sense of Chinese consumers is later developed than that of the European and American regions, the Chinese market has completed the pformation of the western market for decades in ten years.

"Chinese consumers understand all kinds of brands quickly and deeply through digital networks and devices." big brands "can no longer attract them, instead of independent designer brands. The same situation happened in Japan ten years ago, and seven years ago in Korea.

Rodrigo tells interface news.

"The last batch of fans could be brands like Gucci and Prada. Now it's our turn."

Rodrigo indicates that the so-called niche designer brand has shown signs of expansion.

And Thom Browne share the same idea as well as the Acne Studios and Opening Ceremony that grew up with it at the same time. It is reported that the former is actively organizing the Chinese team, and OC also said in the interview with the interface news that the cooperation with the domestic brand Daphne is the touchstone that they threw in the Chinese market.

Thom Browne began to enter the Chinese market in a big way. This decision is a joint decision with the Sandbridge Capital behind it.

Last year, private equity Sandbridge Capital bought the vast majority of Thom Browne from Japan's Stipe International, and the two sides integrated the company's business development plan. "China is the market that we want to enter directly, and will also be our long-term direct investment project."

Rodrigo says.

Sandbridge Capital's position in the fashion circle can't be underestimated. Tommy Hilfiger, Gucci CEO, and Tom Ford brand co founder Domenico De Sole both serve as the senior adviser to the private fund.

However, the cake in the Chinese market is the target of many brands. It is no easy task to do well. In addition to the power of capital, there is a need to really understand the market. Thom Browne has chosen fashion consulting company Translatio.

Similar to the style of Thom Browne, everyone is eager to promote their own fashion circles. The Translatio founded by Jimin Lee, born in Korea, has been keeping a low profile. It has provided consultation and business services for the brand including purchasing, marketing, public relations and so on. It has been 14 years since the founding of the mainland market in China. It is the trader who has successfully settled many European and American fashion brands.

"I have known Jimin for seven years, and their Chinese team has helped us speed up the localization process. The original landing process will take a lot of time and energy, and there will be a lot of mistakes, but now we can say that we have found a shortcut through them."

Rodrigo believes that from the two aspects of capital and market, it is the best time to enter China.

Prior to that, apart from a flash shop in SKP store in Beijing, Thom Browne has no independent stores in China, and there are few independent entities in other parts of the world. Because of the purpose of controlling brand language and image, Thom Browne does not want to open too many independent boutiques, and more relies on cooperation with Farfetch, an e-commerce platform, to present every quarterly product online.

For the creative part of the online website, Thom Browne will also check it all, such as Look Book's every photo and styling, and Browne will go over it personally.

This gives consumers little chance to get into Thom Browne under the more easily established emotional connections.

With the help of Translatio, Thom Browne, which has been on a small scale, has decided to speed up its opening up in the Chinese market. It is reported that the company will open 5 stores in the next 4 months. The Rodrigo will come to China with the market team to prepare for a series of shops.

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"After coming to China, we are more aware of the importance of social networking."

Tomaso Galli, vice president and director of marketing and Communications Department of Thom Browne, said that through Jingdong and Tmall's sponsorship of fashion week and the former investment in Farfetch, he saw that China played a very important role in the fashion ecosystem, and social media meant social commerce in this market.

"In such a big environment, Thom Browne is not not embracing the social network, but through what channels and at what point of time to expose, we need careful decisions, including the cooperation between the relevant stars and KOL, we are also looking for."

Tomaso added.

For Thom Browne, which is highly stylish and does not take the initiative to seek exposure, it seems hard to imagine which Chinese star or KOL can match Thom Browne's tune for a time. An incompatible spokesperson may destroy a brand's painstaking image.

In this regard, Tomaso did not mention the word "endorsement" in his statement, which he called "organic cooperation".

"Perhaps we are proud that many Korean first-line stars are keen to buy our products. Through them, Thom Browne has easily gained exposure and reputation. We must never know from the beginning that we have ever done any activities or celebrity cooperation invitation."

Tomaso values the star's willingness to take the initiative to pay attention to and love the brand. "This foundation is very important, and it is also the cooperation we want to pursue, not just the commercial behavior."

At present, the Chinese enterprise that has reached cooperation with Thom Browne is HUAWEI.

This year, at the world's largest design exhibition Design Miami (Miami design exhibition), Thom Browne, as the opening designer, invited 50 female artists to perform a device and behavior art. HUAWEI provided photographic technology support for the event, all of which were taken by mobile phones.

Of all the shops that will be opened in China, men's and women's wear of Thom Browne will be presented.

Among them, custom suits are the core business of Thom Browne from beginning to end. After the introduction of women's wear lines in 2011, the growth rate of the product line exceeded the company's expectations, accounting for 30% of the overall performance.

Usually, when overseas fashion brands enter the Asian market, they need to adjust their clothing sizes according to the Asian body type. But this does not need to worry about the Thom Browne. The brand itself and the design of the inner lining of the lining cater to the Asian body, but this means that the Europeans and Americans may find it difficult to find their own size. Rodrigo tells the interface that they will introduce four different tailoring to meet different sizes from the recent two series. "We don't want customers to say," I like Thom Browne, but I don't wear it properly. "

In a newspaper article in New York, the author compares Thom Browne to tortoise in the tortoise and the hare race. It is not anxious to get ahead. The long-term development is concerned. This can be seen from the founder's daily life. One or two - Thom Browne jog eight kilometers every morning and eat the same breakfast every day.

Tortoise is a kind of animal that moves inward. It may not be good at performance, but it can also be the last winner.

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